Caramelized Onion Ice Cream | Custard versus Gelato
These recipes are originally from Dave Arnold, adjusted slightly to standardize everything into grams. This post won’t include detailed instructions, but is merely documenting the experiment that was the part of this video.
Pressure Cooker Caramelized Onions
1000g Sliced Yellow Onion (1.9 fructose, 2.3 glucose, 1.6 sucrose, 5.8% total sugar. 70.4% of total initial mixture.)
250g Whole Milk (17.6% total initial mixture)
170g Brown Sugar (12% total initial mixture)
3.0g Salt
This results in a mixture with the following sugar profile: 19 fructose, 23 glucose, 181 sucrose, 7.5 lactose, 230.5 total sugar. After cooking, the total was 1300g. Which was used to calculate the estimated sweetness and anti-freezing power. (18.2 sweetness, 20.6 AFP per 100g.) The sweetness was also slightly adjusted to account for the caramelization. The recipe was originally designed for a stovetop pressure cooker. This first attempt went for one hour using a countertop electric pressure cooker, but may have needed even longer.
Custard Base
10 egg yolks - 185g (14.23%)
500 ml milk - 500g (38.46%)
500 ml heavy cream - 440g (33.85%)
170 grams sugar (13.08%)
Enough salt - 6.0g (0.46%)
Target fat content: 16.5-17.0%, target sweetness: 15.0%, estimated AFP: 150. Each ingredient is listed as the original measurement from the recipe, converted to estimated grams when necessary, and the overall percentage within the mixture. This makes it easier to scale the recipe down to a 1000g batch. The procedure was fairly simple, primarily blending ingredients, cooking sous vide to 85°C, mixing again, and refrigerating overnight.
1:1 Custard Base and Pressure Caramelized Onions
Target fat content: 8.5-9.0%, target sweetness: 16.5-17.0%, estimated AFP: 180.
Caramelized Onion Gelato
500g Pressure Caramelized Onions (from above)
215g Heavy Cream
125g Whole Milk
90g Dextrose
30g Molasses
20g Toasted/Skimmed Milk Powder
5.0g Salt
2.0g Sodium Citrate
2.0g Xanthan Gum
1.5g Locust Bean Gum
8.0g Acid Phosphate
Target fat content: 7.5-8.0%, target sweetness: 18.0-18.5%, estimated AFP: 305. My original recipe built around the caramelized onion mixture. For testing it was simply blended and directly cooked in the blender, to 85°C to activate the stabilizers, before chilling and refrigerated overnight. It was then blended one time, before pre-chilling and churning like all of my gelato recipes.
Strawberry Semifreddo
480g Strawberry Juice (fresh, minimally filtered) | 500g
120-150g Heavy Cream (250 minus Egg Whites)
90g Plain Greek Yogurt (full fat, homemade or store-bought)
5.0g Salt
3.5g Gelatin Powder
1.5g Xanthan Gum
—————100-130g Egg Whites (from three large eggs)
135g Sucrose | 100g Sucrose and 20g Fructose
100+g Water
(optional) 4.0g Citric Acid and 1.0g Malic Acid
Prepare fresh strawberry juice with whatever equipment you have available. This can be a juicer, or just a blender followed by a standard mesh strainer. The juice can be quite pulpy, you just don’t want large fruit fibers.
Try to ensure you have a little over 500mL in volume of this juice, the exact quantity will be measured later on. Extra juice can be used for drinks or syrups fresh, and frozen for later use. Larger portions of homemade juice can also be frozen for this, and similar recipes.
—————Measure the first set of dry ingredients: gelatin powder, salt, and xanthan gum. Combine and set aside. Also separately measure and set aside the acid powders, if using.
Separate three eggs and collect the egg whites. If any of the yolks break, use that particular egg for something else and separate another one. After collecting, measure the egg whites on a scale and take note of the total. If you are under the recommended range (using smaller eggs) separate another until you have at least 100g.
Measure the heavy cream directly into a small heatproof/microwave-safe vessel. (The exact measurement is dependent on the total egg whites.) Add the gelatin mixture and stir thoroughly. Allow this to sit at room temperature for roughly 10 minutes.
Microwave the cream mixture in 30 second bursts with stirring in between, or otherwise gently warm up, until the mixture is anywhere between 60-70°C (140-158°F).
Transfer this cream mixture into a much larger mixing bowl. Then measure the strawberry juice into the same small container that previously held the cream. (The exact quantity of the strawberry juice dependent on whether you are using only sucrose, or sucrose and fructose.) Do extra stirring to “rinse” the measuring vessel before also adding the strawberry juice to the large mixing bowl.
Measure the Greek style yogurt before also adding that to the large mixing bowl. Use an immersion blender to thoroughly combine all of these ingredients until smooth and homogenous. Being diligent afterward to scrape as much as possible off of the blender head.
—————Place the already measured egg whites into the bowl of a stand mixer, with the whisk attachment ready. Add a small pinch of the already measured acids, if using those ingredients. This could theoretically be done with a handheld mixer, but you would probably want the assistance of another person for the later steps.
Measure the sucrose, or the sucrose and fructose combination, before placing into a small pot. Cover roughly with 100g of water, but the exact amount isn’t important. Place this on a relatively high heat on the stove, covered for just a minute.
Uncover the syrup and monitor with a thermometer closely, once it starts boiling. When the syrup reaches 108°C (226°F) quickly go to the stand mixer with the egg whites, turning onto a medium-high speed. Return to the syrup and continue monitoring. (Another instance where it may be helpful to have somebody helping, to just turn on the mixer.)
Once the syrup reaches 118-120°C (244-248°F) quickly and carefully bring it to the stand mixer. The egg whites should be fairly frothy if not approaching soft peaks. If not ready, keep the hot syrup covered on very low heat for another minute or two.
When/if the egg whites are the proper texture, turn the mixer down to a slightly slower speed. Carefully pour the hot syrup down the side of the mixer, avoiding the moving whisk.
When all of the syrup is added, turn the mixer to a high-speed with a few increments. Continue processing like this for at least six minutes.
Check that the work bowl of the stand mixer is only slightly warm or room temperature, and that the meringue itself has reached stiff peaks. If both of these parameters are not true, continue mixing on high and check every two minutes.
—————When the meringue is finished, add the remaining measured acids if using. Either way, turn the machine off and detach the work bowl and whisk. Add approximate a third of the meringue (such as the portion stuck to the whisk) to the mixing bowl with the dairy/ strawberry mixture.
Stir this initial installment fairly vigorously until homogenous. Then take another third of the total meringue (half of the remaining) and add it to the dairy mixture. This time carefully folding both components together, with a silicone spatula or similar tool.
When almost entirely homogeneous, pour all of this mixture back into the stand mixer bowl with the remaining meringue, being diligent to scrape the mixing bowl. For the last time, fold everything together being particularly delicate. Take care to scrape around the sides and bottom of the stand mixer bowl.
Continue folding until almost or entirely homogeneous, some streaks/marbling can be a pleasant visual.
Finally, place all of the mixture into your desired molds (a parchment lined loaf pan, other shaped bakeware, individual ramekins/silicone molds, etc.) and feel free to layer in crumbled cookies, cakes, nuts, chocolate, etc.. As well as gently finish folding melted chocolate or other semisolid flavorings.
Place in the freezer covered tightly with plastic wrap for a minimum of 12 hours.
For service, wait a few minutes at room temperature before unmolding. Cut with a hot knife if using a large format, temper individual portions in the refrigerator for approximately 10 minutes, before garnishing and serving.
Coffee Semifreddo
400-500g Whole Milk
35-50g Coarse Ground Coffee
—————270-300g Coffee Infused Milk (400 minus Egg Whites)
235g Heavy Cream
25g Skimmed Milk Powder
7.0g Salt
2.0g XG
100g Espresso/Other Strong Coffee
10g Distilled Spirit
—————100-130g Egg Whites (from three large eggs)
100g Lactose/Sucrose
80g Light Brown Sugar
100+g Water
Measure and combine the whole milk and ground coffee into an airtight container, before refrigerating. The exact measurements for this are not critical, anywhere within the recommended range should work. Refrigerate for 8-24 hours before proceeding.
—————Measure the first set of dry ingredients: milk powder, salt, and xanthan gum. Combine and set aside.
Separate three eggs and collect the egg whites. If any of the yolks break, use that particular egg for something else and separate another one. After collecting, measure the egg whites on a scale and take note of the total. If you are under the recommended range (using smaller eggs) separate another until you have at least 100g.
Measure the heavy cream directly into a small heatproof/microwave-safe vessel. Add the milk powder mixture and stir thoroughly. Microwave in 30 second bursts with stirring in between, or otherwise gently warm up, until the mixture is fairly hot but not simmering. This will help dissolve the milk powder, but do not worry if it is not homogenous yet.
Transfer this cream mixture into a much larger mixing bowl. Immediately filter and measure the coffee milk into the same small container that previously held the cream. (The exact measurement is dependent on the total egg whites.) Do extra stirring to “rinse” the measuring vessel before also adding the coffee milk to the large mixing bowl.
Prepare or buy roughly 4 shots of espresso, with whatever equipment you have available, or prepare similar extra strong coffee. Also measure this 100g into the same vessel as the cream and milk, before adding to the large mixing bowl.
Stir everything currently in the mixing bowl to combine. If the milk powder and other solids seem separated, quickly process the mixture with an immersion blender until smooth.
—————Place the already measured egg whites into the bowl of a stand mixer, with the whisk attachment ready. This could theoretically be done with a handheld mixer, but you would probably want the assistance of another person for the later steps.
Measure the lactose/sucrose and brown sugar before placing into a small pot. Cover roughly with 100g of water, but the exact amount isn’t important. Place this on a relatively high heat on the stove, covered for just a minute.
Uncover the syrup and monitor with a thermometer closely, once it starts boiling. When the syrup reaches 108°C (226°F) quickly go to the stand mixer with the egg whites, turning onto a medium-high speed. Return to the syrup and continue monitoring. (Another instance where it may be helpful to have somebody helping, to just turn on the mixer.)
Once the syrup reaches 118-120°C (244-248°F) quickly and carefully bring it to the stand mixer. The egg whites should be fairly frothy if not approaching soft peaks. If not ready, keep the hot syrup covered on very low heat for another minute or two.
When/if the egg whites are the proper texture, turn the mixer down to a slightly slower speed. Carefully pour the hot syrup down the side of the mixer, avoiding the moving whisk.
When all of the syrup is added, turn the mixer to a high-speed with a few increments. Continue processing like this for at least six minutes.
Check that the work bowl of the stand mixer is only slightly warm or room temperature, and that the meringue itself has reached stiff peaks. If both of these parameters are not true, continue mixing on high and check every two minutes.
—————When the meringue is finished, turn the machine off and detach the work bowl and whisk. Add approximate a third of the meringue (such as the portion stuck to the whisk) to the mixing bowl with the dairy/coffee mixture.
Stir this initial installment fairly vigorously until homogenous. Then take another third of the total meringue (half of the remaining) and add it to the dairy mixture. This time carefully folding both components together, with a silicone spatula or similar tool.
When almost entirely homogeneous, pour all of this mixture back into the stand mixer bowl with the remaining meringue, being diligent to scrape the mixing bowl. For the last time, fold everything together being particularly delicate. Take care to scrape around the sides and bottom of the stand mixer bowl.
Continue folding until almost or entirely homogeneous, some streaks/marbling can be a pleasant visual.
Finally, place all of the mixture into your desired molds (a parchment lined loaf pan, other shaped bakeware, individual ramekins/silicone molds, etc.) and feel free to layer in crumbled cookies, cakes, nuts, chocolate, etc.. As well as gently finish folding melted chocolate or other semisolid flavorings.
Place in the freezer covered tightly with plastic wrap for a minimum of 12 hours.
For service, wait a few minutes at room temperature before unmolding. Cut with a hot knife if using a large format, garnish and serve immediately.
Bulletproof Cacio e Pepe (Baker’s percentage)
100% Pecorino
15% Parmigiano/Grana (finely grated)
10% Butter
60% Water/Ice
1.5% Sodium Citrate
(optional) 1.5% Black Peppercorns
Start by measuring all of the ingredients and leaving them separate. This recipe was developed with a food processor, but a high-powered blender could work. If using a blender, switch to almost entirely cold water and very little ice for that measurement.
If including peppercorns in this preparation, toast them in a frying pan on a relatively low heat. Keep them moving in the pan, removing once fragrant and beginning to slightly sizzle. Increase the temperature a little if this does not happen within roughly 3 minutes minutes.
Allow the peppercorns a few minutes to cool down in a separate vessel. Break down the peppercorns using whatever tools you have available. A mixture of moderate to very coarse particles is recommended.
The advantage of including the pepper directly in the mixture is obviously making it more convenient for Cacio e Pepe. The disadvantage is that it makes the cheese paste slightly less versatile. Preparing the black pepper fresh/separately for each instance of pasta will also have a slightly improved flavor.
In the bowl of your food processor, place the water/ice and approximately half of the pecorino cheese. Pulse three or four times until the pecorino breaks into smaller pieces, then run the machine continuously for roughly 30 seconds.
Next add the pieces of butter and hard cheese (parmigiano/grana), and pulse again three or four times. Run the machine continuously for roughly 30 seconds, before checking to see if the butter has visibly disappeared. If it hasn’t, run for another 10 seconds and check again. Continue as necessary before proceeding.
Lastly, add the remaining pecorino and the sodium citrate. Pulse three or four times until the pecorino breaks into smaller pieces, then run the machine continuously for roughly 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides and top of the food processor with a spatula, before running at least another 15 seconds.
Check the consistency, you are looking for something borderline to entirely smooth, like a fine textured ricotta cheese. If there are any larger solid chunks, continue to process in 15 second increments until the desired texture is reached.
If using, add the prepared black pepper and incorporate with a spatula. Either way, transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for several days, or freeze for a few months.
Preparing Pasta (separate Baker’s percentage)
100% Pasta
65-75% Cacio Paste
1.0-1.6%* Black Peppercorns (if pepper is not already in the paste)
Water and salt as needed
Additional pecorino, pepper for garnish
Buttermilk Sourdough Shokupan
120g Bread Flour
50g Sourdough Starter
50g Water
—-120g Boiled Water
60g 00 Flour
—-290g 00 Flour
Previous Biga
Previous Tangzhong (hydrated flour paste)
2.0g Dried Yeast
180g Cultured Buttermilk
40g (one large) Egg White
60g Ghee/Cultured Butter
20g Lactose/Sucrose
6.0g Salt
Prepare the biga by combining the bread flour, sourdough starter, and water. This will be a fairly stiff form of pre-ferment, and that is the intention. Let sit covered for anywhere around 8-12 hours at room temperature, or roughly 4 hours at room temperature and up to 24 hours refrigerated.
When the biga is ready, separately measure the first small quantity of 00 flour. Measure the required amount of just boiled water; which is easiest to do with a kettle and by volume in a heatproof measuring vessel (120mL). Relatively quickly, add the 00 flour to the hot water and incorporate thoroughly with a small utensil.
Give the hydrated flour paste just a few minutes to cool down before placing into the work bowl, alongside the biga. This is also a good opportunity to measure all of the remaining ingredients, leaving separated.
Add approximately a third of the remaining 00 flour to the work bowl, before turning the stand mixer to a low speed with the dough hook. Work the current mixture until the flour is mostly absorbed, before stopping the machine and adding the remaining flour and the dried yeast.
Continue to incorporate this flour on a low speed for roughly 2-3 minutes, although it will not be completely absorbed. With the machine still running, slowly add the buttermilk, stopping if you see the liquid actually begin to pool. Continue adding the buttermilk in installments as necessary until everything is in, and just beginning to come together in the bowl.
Once at least a shaggy mass has formed, begin to increase the speed of the stand mixer in increments, until it is relatively high but the machine is stable. Continue to work at this speed for at least 10 minutes.
After this, the dough should look cohesive, smooth, and stretch easily when tested. Either way, add the salt and mix for at least one more minute, although longer if it did not reach the desired appearance just described.
Bring the mixer down to the lowest speed, before adding a small piece of the measured butter. Continue for roughly 1 minute before increasing the speed to medium, until the butter disappears into the dough. Repeat this cycle until all of the butter is incorporated.
Lastly bring the mixer back to the lowest setting, before sprinkling in the lactose/sucrose. Mix until incorporated.
Scrape the dough off of the hook and sides of the bowl, before doing preliminary shaping into a vague ball. Either cover the work bowl with plastic, or transfer to an appropriate vessel that will accommodate up to twice the current volume.
Begin the fermentation at room temperature for anywhere between 1-4 hours, before refrigerating. The cold fermentation can last anywhere between 18-48 hours. The flavor will change slightly from the longer fermentation, but it is best to determine more based on your personal schedule.
Whenever ready to proceed, divide and shape the dough as desired. The exact quantity used will depend on your loaf pan. Extra bread dough (or the entire batch) can be shaped into buns, rolls, or even repurposed for dessert baking.
Allow the shaped dough to proof at room temperature (or a slightly warmed environment of up to 32°C), covered loosely with plastic wrap. Watch closely to approach almost doubled in size by volume, but ultimately determine whether it is ready with a poke test.
If active steam is available, preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) and 100% steam. Bake initially for 8 minutes, before decreasing the settings to 175°C (350°F) and 0% steam, for an additional 15-20 minutes, checking that the internal temperature reaches at least 90°C (194°F).
For a conventional oven, bake the entire time at 175°C for a full 20-25 minutes, checking to reach the same internal temperature.
Allow the bread to cool completely before removing from the plan and slicing.
Buttermilk Custard Gelato
180g Heavy Cream
150-180g (3 large) Whole Eggs
190g Toasted Sugar
35g Skimmed Milk Powder
8.0g Vanilla Bean/Paste, other Spices
6.0g Salt
2.0g Xanthan Gum
370-400g Cultured Buttermilk, Unstrained Yogurt, Kefir (0-3.25% fat)
30g Distilled Spirit (40% ABV)
Target Fat Content: 7.5-9.0%
Target Sweetness: 18.5-19.5%
Estimated AFP: 315-320
Measure the dry ingredients: toasted sugar, milk powder, salt; XG, and combine them.
Measure the cream directly into a heatproof bowl, as part of a double boiler set up. Next measure the weight of three whole eggs. Separately measure the buttermilk (or similar fermented dairy), the quantity of which should be 550 minus the weight of the eggs
Bring the water within the double boiler to a simmer over medium-high heat on your stove. Once there is some steam, frequently stir the cream and eggs on top of the double boiler and monitor the temperature with a digital thermometer.
Start adding the dry ingredients (sugar, milk powder, etc.). Slowly add the dry ingredient mixture while constantly stirring.
Continue to stir frequently until the mixture reaches 75-80°C (167-176°F). After which you can temporarily turn the stove off.
Slowly add your measured buttermilk while stirring, until everything is incorporated. Check the temperature of this new mixture, if it is below 60°C (140°F), turn the stove back on for the double boiler water.
If necessary, continue to cook and stir the mixture over the double boiler. Monitoring the temperature until it reaches just above 60°C, before then removing the bowl from the double boiler.
The mixture can continue to stay warm for a few minutes. Measure the vanilla bean/paste before incorporating.
Prepare an ice bath in a large bowl or pot, and place the smaller bowl containing your gelato base into the ice bath. Lastly, measuring the alcohol before incorporating. Stir occasionally and check the temperature until it cools down to at least 25°C (77°F).
Cover with plastic wrap pressed up against the surface of the liquid. Let the gelato base rest in the refrigerator for 6-24 hours.
After the resting, blend the gelato base to smooth out any inconsistencies in the custard. Then transfer it into the freezer to pre-chill.
Stir the gelato base in the freezer and check the temperature every 20-to 30 minutes. Once it reaches 0°C (32°F) or slightly lower, set up your ice cream machine.
Churn the gelato according to the basic instructions of your machine, until it achieves a softserve consistency. Immediately transfer into an airtight container and place it in the freezer for a minimum of a few hours, ideally closer to 12 hours.
This gelato should be ready to serve directly out of the freezer.
Taco Party Rojo - Spice Blend
Measure the necessary ingredients according to any of the calculating options. Take the whole dried chilies, breaking into pieces if necessary, and toast in a moderately hot frying pan. Keep these pieces moving until just fragrant, before removing. Next toast any of the hard spices that are also whole, such as the peppercorns. Grind everything together with whatever equipment you see fit, to your preferred level of coarse/fine. Unless using within a few weeks, keep stored in an airtight container, and ideally in the freezer.
This mixture is intentionally mild and fruity. If you prefer a mixture with more heat, it’s recommended to replace the variety of dried chili instead of changing the proportion. You can also substitute a small amount of the dried chili with a very hot chili flake/powder. Another potential substitute in the recipe is replacing the sumac with dried hibiscus.
Apple Skin Acid & Apple Match Sugar (Reference)
~100-180g Apple Skins
40g Citric Acid
20g Malic Acid
5.0g Salt
850g Water
57g Fructose
25g Sucrose
18g Dextrose
Measure the acid powders into a nonreactive container.
Collect the skin of several apples, preferably from one type of apple and totaling anywhere within the recommended measurement range. This could be done all at once, in which case the apple skin needs to sit in the acid mixture for at least two hours. The skin can also be collected periodically over the course of a week, as long as the pieces of skin are shaken to incorporate with the acid and kept refrigerated.
Take the apple skin-acid mixture and combine it with the recommended measurement of water. Blend this together thoroughly.
Pass this mixture through a relatively fine filter, either an extra fine metal strainer, or a food grade nylon filter bag.
Once you have the filtered liquid, measure and combine the different sugars before stirring into the liquid. You can also scale up the sugar measurements and mix separately for other applications. In which case you would need 100g of the sugar mixture for a batch of acid.
Use as a substitute for strong citrus juice or other culinary acids. Keep refrigerated and it should last at least two weeks.
Kiwi Sorbetto
820g Peeled Kiwis | 800g
30g Fructose | 50g Sucrose
10g Maltodextrin
5.0g Salt
5.0g Gum Acacia
2.5g Xanthan Gum
1.2g Acid Mixture (6:1:1 citric, malic, ascorbic) | Citric Acid
60g Honey
60g Dry White Wine
Target Sweetness: 20.0-20.5%
Estimated AFP: 325-360
If possible, prepare a mixture of citric acid, malic acid, and ascorbic acid with a ratio of 6:1:1. It is easier to make more than necessary for the purposes of measuring. Otherwise substitute with just 1.2g of citric acid.
Measure and combine to the rest of the dry ingredients: fructose or sucrose, maltodextrin, salt, and stabilizers.
Peel and chop up fresh kiwi, into moderate sized pieces, until you have the quantity necessary. Note that if you are using regular sugar/sucrose instead of fructose, you will need a slightly smaller quantity of kiwi.
Place approximately half of the pieces into a high-powered blender. Purée this on a relatively high setting for at least 30 seconds, or until totally smooth.
Next begin to run the blender on a relatively low speed, just until a visible vortex forms. Remove the entire lid of the blender if possible while running, or the cover for a pour spout.
Steadily sprinkle the mixture of dry ingredients into the vortex and let it run for a few more seconds. Briefly stop the blender before adding the remaining kiwi pieces.
Replace the lid/cover and purée everything again at a relatively high speed. For at least 45 seconds or until everything is once again smooth.
Measure the honey into a small container before pouring into the sorbet mixture. Measure the dry white wine into the same container, stirring to dissolve any residual honey. Also add this to the sorbet mixture, before one final high-powered blend, roughly 15 seconds.
Leave the sorbet base in the blender container, but with plastic wrap pressed against the liquid surface. Otherwise transfer it into some other airtight container/bag. Let the mixture rest in the refrigerator for at least six hours but up to overnight.
After resting, give the mixture one more blend, with the same blender or an immersion blender. Place it in the freezer to pre-chill for 45-60 minutes, followed by setting up your ice cream machine.
Churn the sorbet according to the basic instructions of your machine, until it achieves a softserve consistency. Immediately transfer into an airtight container and place it in the freezer for a minimum of a few hours, ideally closer to 12 hours.
This sorbet should be ready to serve directly out of the freezer.
Capellini di Q Drago | My Signature Pasta
Baker’s Percentages
100% Dried Capellini
40-45% Roasted Garlic OR 50-60% Roasted Garlic Paste (see reference)
30% Cultured Cream/Crème Fraîche
Stock/Broth (vegetable, light chicken, mild dashi, or water with stock concentrate) as needed
Salt, Black Pepper, and raw garlic to taste
If roasting garlic fresh, place at least one head in the oven at 145-150°C (290-300°F) drizzled with a small amount of neutral oil, and either wrapped in foil or with the oven set to 50% steam injection. Depending on the size of the garlic, check the texture after 30-40 minutes. It should be completely soft and smell delicious. Measure the roasted garlic from the skin based on your weight of dried pasta, and use a fork to break down into a semi-smooth paste. If there is extra roasted garlic, save in the fridge fo a few days. Or intentionally make extra, and prepare as garlic paste for the freezer. Alternatively, measure already prepared roasted garlic paste.
Also measure the crème fraîche/cultured cream based on your dried pasta and have it standing by. Optionally microplane a little bit of raw garlic into the bottom of the serving vessels, to taste.
Place stock, broth, or water with stock concentrate/powder into a frying pan or similar vessels. Be sure to regulate the salt content when working with store-bought products. Similarly add water as necessary when working with homemade stock to achieve a workable volume. Bring the cooking liquid to a hard simmer/gentle boil before placing in the Dried Capellini. (If you’re cooking liquid is completely unseasoned, add some salt but still be conservative.)
If the cooking vessel is slightly too small for the pasta, gently jiggle it right away. Within a few seconds, the pasta should be flexible enough to collapse into the liquid and be submerge. Keep the cooking liquid very hot and bubbling, while continuing to gently stir the pasta occasionally. During this initial cooking phase, make sure everything stays submerged, even adding hot water/stock if necessary. Monitor the texture frequently, as Capellini can take as little as three minutes to cook. Have a relatively large heatproof bowl standing by.
When the pasta is fully hydrated but not mushy (a small amount residual stiffness is okay) grab the pasta in the frying pan using tongs. While holding the tangle of noodles, carefully pour off the majority of the cooking liquid into the bowl standing by. Return the frying pan to the stove but at the lowest possible setting. Add the roasted garlic/prepared paste, and immediately begin stirring and tossing. Do this for at least 30 seconds, adding back some of the cooking liquid if the overall dish looks dry, or if the pasta is still slightly stiff. (Save any left over starchy cooking liquid in the fridge or freezer for other applications.) Once the garlic is fully incorporated, turn off the stove. Add the measured crème fraîche/cultured cream, again stirring and tossing quickly. Season with black pepper, and additional salt if necessary.
Finally plate the pasta into the prepared serving dishes. Garnish with a hard cheeses, ideally Grana Padano/Parmigiano. Lastly, a nice pile of lightly crushed potato chips, flavor of your choice.
Roasted Garlic Paste (Reference)
Prepare several heads of garlic on a baking tray, drizzled with a small amount of neutral oil, and either wrapped in foil or with the oven set to 50% steam injection. Place in a preheated oven at 145-150°C (290-300°F) Depending on the size of the garlic, check the texture after 30-40 minutes. It should be completely soft and smell delicious. If not soft, continue cooking and checking every 5-10 minutes. Once ready, removes the roasted cloves from the skin, and weigh the total.
Baker’s Percentages
100% Roasted Garlic
25% Stock (vegetables or light chicken)
(Optional)
1.2% Instagel
1.0% Fructose
1.0% Diluted I+G
Measure the other ingredients based on the weight of the harvested roasted garlic cloves. Warm up the stock if it is solids/gelatinous, before blending everything together. All of the other seasonings are optional. Place the mixture in an ice cube tray or other silicone mold. Freeze solid before removing and transferring to an airtight bag in the freezer.
Roasted Garlic Chicken Brine
For the added optional savory compounds, check the recipe for Diluted I+G.
Whole Orange Sorbetto
160g Whole Orange Slices
100g Dextrose
(Optional) 2.0g Annatto Seeds/Powder
120g Roasted Carrot
15g Neutral Oil
10g Orange Peel
10g Maltodextrin
6.0g Salt
3.0g Citric Acid
3.0g Gum Arabic
2.5g Xanthan Gum
2.0g Lecithin
500g Fresh Orange Juice (unfiltered, from at least 8-10 medium oranges)
Target Sweetness: 20.0-21.0%
Estimated AFP: 350
Prepare at least four medium sized carrots, chopping into several pieces. Toss with a minimal amount of neutral oil and roast in the oven. Anywhere from 175-190°C (350-380°F) for at least 30 minutes, or until colored and tender. Measure and set aside after roasting.
Prepare and measure slices of orange, ignoring the very top and bottom, and collecting any juice that leaks out. Place directly in one or more canning jars, along with the dextrose, and the annatto seeds if using.
Place the jar(s) inside a pressure cooker with any necessary supports, and roughly half an inch of water. Pressure cook with the highest setting according to manufacturer instructions, for 30-35 minutes. Followed by letting the pressure release naturally.
In the meantime, prepare the remaining ingredients. Measure and combine to the rest of the dry ingredients: toasted sugar, maltodextrin, salt, citric acid, and stabilizers; this mixture can also contain the orange peel. Freshly squeeze and collect the orange juice. Lastly, measure and set aside the neutral oil.
Once the pressure cooker can be safely opened, and the jar is cold enough to handle, it’s possible to proceed with the recipe. Empty the entire contents of the canning jar into the container of a high powered blender.
Next add in the measured carrots. Blend this mixture on high speed until completely smooth, at least 90 seconds, adding a small amount of the orange juice as necessary to blend.
Follow this by the dry ingredients, neutral oil and orange peel. Also blend this on high-speed until completely smooth, at least 45 seconds.
Switch the blender to a moderate speed, with a pour spout open. While running, pour in the remaining orange juice. Give the mixture approximately 10 more seconds of blending on high speed before stopping.
Transfer the sorbet mixture to an airtight container if necessary, or leave inside the blender container. Check the temperature and ensure that it is 25°C or below before refrigerating. Use a cold water bath as necessary. Let the mixture rest for at least six hours but up to overnight.
After resting, give the mixture one more blend, with the same blender or an immersion blender. Place it in the freezer to pre-chill for 45-60 minutes, followed by setting up your ice cream machine.
Churn the sorbet according to the basic instructions of your machine, until it achieves a softserve consistency. Immediately transfer into an airtight container and place it in the freezer for a minimum of a few hours, ideally closer to 12 hours.
This sorbet should be ready to serve directly out of the freezer.
Fresh Apple Gelato with Fermented Green Tomatoes
230g Whole Milk
215g Heavy Cream
100g Dextrose
60g Sucrose
15g Skimmed Milk Powder
4.0g Salt
4.0g Sodium Citrate
4.0g Gelatin
2.0g LBG
2.0g XG
300g Sour Apple Juice (primarily Granny Smith apples, some Honey Crisp apples)
8.0g Apple Brandy
50g* Fermented Green Tomatoes (fermented with 4% salt, 5.26% mass of other ingredients)
Target Fat Content: 7.8-8.0%
Target Sweetness: 18.5-19.5%
Estimated AFP: 345-355
This post is primarily to document and experimental flavor, that could use further development. For the procedure of this recipe, one can simply follow along with the original video. Essentially the same procedure is also used for the Orange Gelato recipe in my cookbook, Gelato Obsession.
Chocolate Hazelnut Panettone
Day 1
150g Bread Flour
100g Milk
80g Sourdough Starter
2.0g Yeast
Day 2
150g Bread Flour
100g Milk
Day 3
350g Bread Flour
150g Fresh Flour (primarily Triticale, some Khorasan, finely sifted)
10.0g Yeast
8.0g Gluten
1.5g XG
220g Milk
180g Whole Eggs
120g Egg Yolks
120g Hazelnut Paste (approxiimately 9% sugar)
60g Dark Chocolate (approximately 85% cocoa)
60g Butter
180g Sugar
22.0g Salt
This post is to primarily document my experimental recipe for panettone, and not necessarily to provide instructions for others. These ingredients are for a double batch, and each individuals panettone received 200-300g of additional solid mix-ins before shaping, proofing, and baking. I still have a lot of improvement to make regarding technique, but if you would like it, simply reference the original recipe video.
Nut Butter Panna Cotta
Check the nutritional information on any store-bought nut butter you are using, to determine the amount of sugar as a percentage by weight. Anything more than 20% sugar is not recommended for this recipe. Beyond that, any flavorful spread based on nuts, seeds and similar should produce a good result.
The exact number of servings you get from a batch will depend on the specific vessels you are using. The values on the right side of the calculator are based on average sized ramekins. Especially for a larger number of servings, it may be best to overestimate and have extra panna cotta mixture.
Measure the nut butter of your choice directly into a narrow/tall vessel, compatible with an immersion blender. Separately measures the sugar/sweetener of choice, and the corresponding amount of water.
Add the sugar/sweetener directly on top of the nut butter. If using honey or maple syrup, use a small amount of the already measured water to rinse the container with the sweetener, before also adding on top of the butter.
Measure the gelatin before adding on top of the remaining water. Let the gelatin bloom for 5-10 minutes at room temperature. This is also the stage to measure and add the gum acacia and salt to the nut butter container.
Once the gelatin is bloomed, dissolve the gelatin in the water by bringing the mixture to between 60-70°C, while occasionally stirring. This can be done with 30-40 second bursts in a microwave, or a very small double boiler set up.
Begin blending the nut butter mixture with an immersion blender, before pouring in the water with dissolved gelatin. Continue to blend, being careful to move the blades up and down, without breaking the surface of the mixture too much. Also be sure to use the blender head to scrape the sides of the vessel for any stuck nut butter.
Once the mixture is homogeneous, simply transfer it into ramekins, small bowls, or silicone molds; depending on the desired presentation. Let the panna cotta fully set for at least 12 hours in the refrigerator, ideally closer to 24 hours.
Simply invert onto a plate with garnishes, or serve directly in the desired vessel.
Cranberry Sorbetto
325g Fresh or Frozen Cranberries
160g Light Caramel
485g Pressure Cooked Cranberries
325g 100% Cranberry Juice
125g Fresh Orange Juice
40g Dextrose
7.0-10.0g Orange Zest
6.0g Salt
(Optional) 3.0g Baking Spices
2.0g Xanthan Gum
1.0g Gum Acacia
5.0g Vanilla Extract
Target Sweetness: 21.0-21.5%
Estimated AFP: 340-345
Measure fresh or frozen cranberries, along with the light caramel, making sure the sugar is broken into a relatively fine powder. Place this mixture directly in three or four small canning jars.
Place the jars inside a pressure cooker with any necessary supports, and roughly half an inch of water. Pressure cook with the highest setting according to manufacturer instructions, for 30-35 minutes. Followed by letting the pressure release naturally.
In the meantime, prepare the remaining ingredients. Measure and combine the rest of the dry ingredients: dextrose, orange peel, salt, spices, and stabilizers. Separately measure the cranberry juice, and freshly squeeze and collect the orange juice.
Once the pressure cooker can be safely opened, and the jars are just cold enough to handle, proceed with the recipe. Empty the entire contents of the canning jars into the container of a high powered blender.
Blend this mixture on high speed until completely smooth, at least 60 seconds. Follow this by the dry mixture, and continue to blend this on high-speed, at least 45 seconds.
Switch the blender to a moderate speed, with a pour spout open. While running, pour in the measured cranberry juice and orange juice. Give the mixture approximately 10 more seconds of blending on high speed before stopping.
If possible, leave the mixture in the blender container to cool down to room temperature, before placing plastic wrap against the surface and refrigerating. Let the mixture rest for at least six hours but up to overnight.
After resting, give the mixture one more blend, while also adding the vanilla extract. Place the mixture in the freezer to pre-chill for 20-30 minutes, followed by setting up your ice cream machine.
Churn the sorbet according to the basic instructions of your machine, until it achieves a softserve consistency. Immediately transfer into an airtight container and place it in the freezer for a minimum of a few hours, ideally closer to 12 hours.
This sorbet should be ready to serve directly out of the freezer.
Roasted Pumpkin & Spice Sorbetto
600-700g Pumpkin/Squash
20g Neutral Oil
10+g Baking Spices
300g Clear Apple Juice
50-60g Roasted Carrots
10-20g Fresh Ginger
480-500g Roasted Pumpkin/Squash
280g Boosted Apple Juice
100g Dextrose
90-110g Maple Syrup
20g Molasses
5.0+g Baking Spices
5.0g Salt
4.0g Gum Acacia
2.5g Xanthan Gum
2.0g Lecithin
10.0g Vanilla Extract/Aged Spirit
Target Fat Content: 1.0-1.5%
Target Sweetness: 18.5-20.0%
Estimated AFP: 350-360
Start by breaking down your pumpkin/squash; removing any seeds, peeling skin, and cutting into relatively thin slices. Even many types of pumpkins advertised for cooking purposes can be overly fibrous and watery. Avoid anything with these characteristics and very pale yellow flesh. If you can’t find a more dense pumpkin with actual orange flesh, the best substitute would be kabocha squash. The next best option is a standard butternut squash, although that will be slightly starchier.
Place the pieces of pumpkin/squash (just saying pumpkin going forward) onto a parchment lined baking tray, making sure you have at least as much called for in the recipe. Measure the neutral oil and at least 10g of your favorite baking spices mixture, although more can be used based on personal preference. Brush the pumpkin with the oil and spice mixture until everything is evenly covered. Also place one medium-sized carrot on the tray.
Place the tray in a preheated oven, anywhere in the range of 200-220°C (400-440°F) for approximately 10-15 minutes. Both parameters depend on the degree of roasting/caramelization you personally prefer. Once the exterior appears to be roasted, check that the pieces themselves are soft throughout. The carrot may take another few minutes to roast.
While the pumpkin is cooling down slightly, measure and combine the maple syrup and molasses. (Use the slightly larger quantity listed if you prefer things sweeter.) Also measure and combine the dry ingredients: dextrose, additional spices, salt, GA, XG, lecithin.
Measure the apple juice before placing in a high powered countertop blender, with the roasted carrot and a piece of fresh ginger. Blend until completely smooth, before filtering through an extra fine sieve, cheesecloth, or food grade nylon filter bag. Measure the resulting liquid before placing it back into the blender.
Measure and set aside the roasted pumpkin. Use the slightly smaller quantity listed, if using the larger quantity of maple syrup.
In addition to the apple juice, add both the maple syrup mixture and the dry ingredients. Being sure to get everything measured. Also add approximately half of the reserved pumpkin into the blender.
Blend going to the highest power possible, until the mixture appears smooth. Add the remaining pumpkin before blending again on high power for at least 45 seconds.
Measure vanilla extract, an aged spirit, or some combination. Turn the blender back on to a moderate speed before adding this last ingredient.
Place this mixture in the refrigerator for at least six hours or overnight. After resting, give the mixture one more blend. Place it in the freezer to pre-chill for 20-30 minutes, followed by setting up your ice cream machine.
Churn the sorbet according to the basic instructions of your machine, until it achieves a softserve consistency. Immediately transfer into an airtight container and place it in the freezer for a minimum of a few hours, ideally closer to 12 hours.
This sorbet will be slightly firmer than most because of the starch content. It will require several minutes of tempering in the fridge or room temperature, before serving.